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Jackie and Jeff's Thomas 50 barge (PolyJ) is currently being fitted
out by themselves at
Port Medway Marina in Kent.
Construction
to a sailaway level and delivery via Kenet & Avon, Thames and Medway
can be seen by clicking here. Over the next
few months, the fit-out progress of PolyJ will be depicted here.
Jeff's barge Spec can be viewed by clicking here
The following paragraphs show the conclusions of
much research and advice from barge owning friends, Ian’s web site,
and the DBA from its magazine and Internet discussion forum. |
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Bow Thruster
Although not strictly necessary on the Thomas 50,
a bow thruster is a luxury that Jackie and I will probably opt for.
They make close quarters manoeuvring so much less stressful and are
invaluable for getting in and out of tight spots when single-handed.
The Vetus catalogue is invaluable for calculating
the correct size of thruster and the range and reputation of their
products is such that there is bound to be a suitable high quality
unit for most situations. They have recently introduced a new ‘super
efficient’ six bladed version that reduces current consumption by
10%, increases thrust and reduces cavitation and vibration. It is
also sealed watertight to IP65 and ignition protected, so that its
operation cannot ignite gas or petrol fumes. The model that is best
suited to our requirements is the Vetus BOW95 and full information
and the sizing guide is available at
www.frenchmarine.com
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Anchors
This is a subject that should be taken very
seriously, particularly if a barge is to be used or kept in tidal
waters, or on fast flowing rivers.
It is not difficult to picture a traditional
barge anchor, but relying, as they do, largely on weight rather than
on design to hold fast, they have to be huge in order to hold a
barge in severe conditions. Unlike a sailing boat, a barge will
normally only have one means of propulsion – its engine – and if
that fails, it is only a swiftly deployed anchor that can save you
from being swept into peril. The problem with a very heavy anchor,
is that in combination with 50m of suitable chain, it will need some
massive equipment to get it back on board.
For barges that are designed with a hawse pipe,
the only anchor designs that will stow neatly are the Halls type -
which are the traditional ones - or the Danforth type, because both
of these have articulating heads and straight shanks.
The traditional Halls type anchor is known as
'low hold' whereas the ‘Fortress’ anchor is a ‘high hold’ Danforth
type, which consistently ranks in the top two best performing
anchors in independent tests.
It is worth looking at
www.fortressanchors.com/weigh_options.html for a comparison
between high and low hold anchors. It describes a Navy anchor, which
is similar to a Halls, needing to weigh 180Kg in order to give the
same holding power as the 31Kg Fortress.
For coastal work, no less than 12mm chain should
be used for a barge of this size and it needs to be at least 50m
long and so will weigh approx. 130Kg.
In the spirit of ‘see what they recommend and go
one size larger’ Polly J will be treated to a Fortress FX125, which
is a weight of 31Kg and has a holding power in soft mud of 3.6
tonnes and a great deal more in sand.
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Windlass
The total weight of the chain plus the anchor
will be 161Kg. The windlass needs to be able to break the anchor out
of the mud – with some help from the engine - and to lift the tackle
back onboard the barge. Electric windlasses are often sold by giving
their maximum lifting power, which is always a lot higher than their
constantly rated capacity. The Lofrans Project 1500 is a 1.5Kw
windlass, with a maximum pull of 1.5 tonnes and comes equipped with
a rope/chain gypsy and a separate drum for independent rope
handling. This model will be fitted, together with a remote
operation panel and chain counter for installation in the
wheelhouse. The full range of Lofrans windlasses, together with
advice on choosing the most appropriate model, can be found at
www.ecs-marine-equipment.co.uk
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Electricity
Due to the fact that we have been used to owning
a sailing boat with very limited opportunity to recharge the
batteries and no shore power, we are no strangers to the use of
highly efficient equipment and the concept of renewable energy. The
new barge is to be fitted out with all of the conveniences necessary
for living aboard, but so as to be as frugal with power as is
practical. Ian’s electricity consumption spreadsheet was invaluable
for calculating peak and average demand and total usage over a
period; so do ask him for a copy.
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Lighting
Low energy light bulbs have come on by leaps and
bounds recently, with LED cluster bulbs that can be inserted as a
direct replacement for both their 12 and 240 volt halogen
equivalents. One can now get them in a warm white as opposed to the
cold blue shade of white that originally made them so unattractive.
They are also available with an inbuilt voltage regulator, which
solves the problem that plagues halogen bulbs with them regularly
blowing when the house batteries are being charged at in excess of
14 volts. They can offer a light output equivalent to 15 watts but
with a power consumption of just 0.07 amps at 12 volts. These and
many more low energy bulbs can be found at www.ultraleds.co.uk
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Refrigeration
Fridges and freezers can be responsible for most
of the overall power consumption on a boat, so refrigeration is an
area that deserves careful thought. Domestic equipment that runs on
240 volts AC is becoming increasingly efficient, with brands such as
Miele producing a standard sized freezer that consumes just 135 Kwh
per year and a larder fridge that consumes just 84 Kwh per year.
12-volt DC equivalents should also be considered, although these may
possibly be considerably more expensive, but have the advantage of
not needing a constant supply of 240 volt. For 12v and 24v
refrigeration, try
www.boatfridge.com
According to ‘Shoreline’, a 12v fridge such as
the one that Ian uses will consume in the region of 19 amp hours per
day. A high efficiency 240v larder fridge will consume about 20 Ah
(at 12 volts) over the same period allowing for a 5% inefficiency
from the inverter. At –18ºC, a ‘Shoreline’ 12v freezer is said to
consume 44 Ah per day, whilst its 240 volt equivalent is rated at
just 33 Ah (at 12 volts) over 24 hours.
The latest update to Shorelines website no longer
gives power consumption figures for freezing to –18ºC, they only
quote figures for –12ºC which prevents comparison with domestic
freezers that have to give figures for the lower temperature.
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Inverters
There are certain pieces of domestic equipment
that will almost certainly need a 240v AC supply, for instance
vacuum cleaners and washing machines and some others that make sense
to run on 240 volts, for example microwaves and irons. For these it
will be necessary to invest in an inverter of at least 2500 watts
capacity, as no front-loading washing machine that I have been able
to find has a peak demand of less than 2300 watts. Unlike fridges
however, these items are only run for short periods of time, so the
constant draw on current that is inherent with inverters does not
impact greatly on overall usage.
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Charging the batteries
The primary source of charge will come from the
dual alternators on the barge’s John Deere diesel engine, whose
output will be combined by an Adverc charging regulator to provide a
potential total of 230 amps. In addition to this and at some point
in the future, wind turbine power generation may be added and so too
may solar power play a part.
Even amongst people who are keen to do all they
can to preserve the environment by the use of renewable energy,
there is much doubt that life on board is possible without a
generator. There is in fact no shortage of electrical energy
available from the wind and Sun, given a large enough wind turbine
and a sufficient area of photovoltaic panels. The challenge is to
reduce ones need for power to the minimum and to have enough battery
capacity to store the energy from when it is available, to when it
is needed. A barge is the perfect platform for solar panels with all
of that deck area and before you mention the cost, how many panels
could you buy for the 4 or 5 thousand pounds that a marine generator
would cost. And then there is the cost of maintenance, consumables
and, of course, fuel. It is a sobering calculation to work out the
true cost of 1kW of electricity when using a generator. Many solar
panels are guaranteed to produce power for upwards of 20 years with
no fuel costs or maintenance at all.
The combination of wind and solar power is
perfect for weekend users, as the batteries are nicely topped up
from Monday to Friday, in readiness for the following weekend. For a
week’s holiday on board, the engine will be in use and should be
capable of supplying all of the power that is needed. Most live
aboard barges will have access to shore power, and so have no need
for separate diesel generators. All assuming that high efficiency,
low energy electrical equipment is used throughout.
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Wind turbines
There are many companies supplying devices for
the generation of renewable energy. Take a look at
www.futurenergy.co.uk as an example of a wind turbine that would be
suitable for mounting on a barge. At just 6 knots of wind speed it
is producing some 26w, 8 knots gives 53w, 10 knots 114w, right up to
660w at 32 knots of wind. The official average annual wind speed
where our barge is to be kept is 9 knots, which on average would
supply 2.4Kw per day (200 amps at 12 volts).
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Solar panels
Photo voltaic, otherwise known as solar panels
can also be worthwhile, but chiefly in the summer months. Uni-solar
produce panels called ‘triple junction’ which are ideally suited to
our latitude, because they still operate reasonably well on grey and
overcast days. Their US64 model is rated for a peak output of 64w in
bright sunshine, but probably half that on a dull day, so a couple
of panels would be capable of supplying the needs of a high
efficiency fridge and freezer for much of the summer period. Have a
look at www.solarboat.co.uk
for the full range of sizes and prices.
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Batteries
When electricity is generated via the engine or
by the sun or wind, it must be stored in batteries so that it is
available whenever needed. Not all batteries can stand this
continuous charging and discharging without being damaged, so it is
vital to obtain traction (deep cycling) batteries for the job. These
are not cheap, but the best manufacturers such as ‘Rolls’ supply a
10 year warranty and expect them to last a great deal longer than
that. Take a look at
www.barden-uk.com/rolls-marine-batteries.html
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Heating
In the forward cabin will be installed a diesel
‘Bubble’ stove, which is capable of producing between 1.4 and 5Kw of
heat. They are very efficient and need no electrical power once they
are alight. With the superb degree of insulation provided by the
50mm thick layer of PU spray foam, combined with double-glazing to
all windows and hatches, this will keep the main cabin as warm as
toast and provide background heat for the bathroom and aft cabin.
For instant warmth when first arriving on a cold barge, and a
welcome boost to the output of the ‘Bubble’ stove, another heater
will be fitted. This time a forced air heater made by a Scandinavian
company called Wallas. The ‘30D’ runs on Red diesel or paraffin
(kerosene) with no modification, producing between 1 and 3Kw of heat
at the flick of a switch or time clock and thermostat. It is totally
room sealed, uses a miserly 1 – 1.9 amps of 12 volt and in contrast
to its competitors, it is almost silent in operation. It is rated
for continuous use and a friend of mine has clocked up over 7000
hours of use with his over just 3 years, with no more than an
occasional D.I.Y. service. Details of this and the other models in
the range can be found at
www.kuranda.co.uk
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Hot water
Storing hot water in a cylinder is the most usual
choice and the engine’s waste heat can be used to heat it for
‘free’, providing you don’t mind having a large, heavy, calorifier
hidden somewhere. The problem with that, is that in our experience,
90% of the time spent on board, the engine is not used and the water
might not be warm when you actually need it and certainly not when
you first arrive on board. The use of a diesel or electric water
heater is a possibility, but not very efficient, as stored water can
only lose energy with time. The most widely used alternative is the
gas instantaneous water heater: this heats water very efficiently
and only on demand. These heaters have fallen out of favour due to
the lack of room sealed models, which are stipulated as part of the
‘Boat Safety Scheme’.
One of the oldest and most respected
manufacturers of LPG water heaters ‘Morco’ has recently released a
new model: the ‘F-11E’. It is totally room sealed and provides a
modulated output of between 6.7 and 19.2Kw depending on demand for
maximum efficiency. It is capable of instantly providing piping hot
water at a flow rate of 11 litres per minute and at only 592mm x
330mm x 247mm, it is perfect for installation within a high level
kitchen cabinet. For further details and prices, have a look at
www.midlandchandlers.co.uk
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Gas
The cost of Propane purchased in 13Kg cylinders
is similar per kWh to that of domestic electricity. As a fuel it is
clean and instant and probably the first choice for cooking and in
our case for water heating. LPG does need to be treated with respect
and installed by a CORGI registered engineer, but given a few
precautions it is a very safe form of energy. Our 4 Propane
cylinders will be housed in two independent gas lockers, which will
be situated on the foredeck and drained via pipes overboard. The
ships galley with its gas cooker and instantaneous water heater will
be directly behind these lockers at the front end of the main cabin,
so as to reduce the pipe run to an absolute minimum. There will of
course be installed gas detectors at floor level and in the bilges
to guarantee safety. The water heater, being of the balanced flue
type, cannot introduce any products of combustion into the living
area and the cooker will have flame failure devices on every burner.
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The bathroom
The biggest question for the smallest room is
whether to go for a shower or a bath. Although most people shower
most of the time and showering uses far less of ones precious water
supply, there are some other factors that are worthy of
consideration. There is nothing to say that you can’t shower whilst
standing in a bathtub, as opposed to using a shower cubicle. In a
small room, although a bath may be have a larger footprint than a
cubicle, once the shower curtain is drawn back, the eye tends to
focus on the wall behind as if the bath were not there. A shower
cubicle on the other hand, even though it may be clear or
translucent, has the effect of making a small room look even
smaller. In addition, a bath on a barge is a very useful receptacle
for washing large items or rinsing off muddy clothes.
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The toilet
One might think that the choice of toilet would
deserve a couple of sentences, but it is a subject upon which
opinions vary. It is worth remembering at the start, that even if
sewage holding tanks (‘black tanks’) are not compulsory in some
circumstances as yet, it is only a matter of time before they will
be. Our new barge will be fitted with a polypropylene ‘black tank’
of 800l capacity. This should be adequate for at least 6 weeks use
for two people.
Traditionally, ‘sea toilets’ were used on barges
and indeed on most other boats. These days, there are many domestic
style alternatives that flush into an onboard tank, for emptying at
an official pump out station or discharging overboard where the
regulations allow.
If there is one thing about which there is
unanimous agreement, it is that the worst job on board any boat is
unblocking the heads, especially when someone else has blocked it!
For this reason, whatever else is considered before making a choice
of toilet, its ability to function reliably without blocking, even
when abused by guests who perhaps attempt to flush away things that
they shouldn’t, should be right at the top of the list of
priorities. After months of asking various people’s opinion,
together with relentless searching on the Internet, I reduced the
competition down to a short list, which I took with me to the London
Boat Show. Here were on display working exhibits of all of the
front-runners and only by close examination and the flushing of each
one was I able to confirm for myself what I had already established
from my research. The ‘Silence’ model from Tecma was, as its name
implies, almost silent when flushed. It is also exceptionally well
built and has a unique grinding system that it’s many owners
describe as nearly impossible to block, as can be seen at
http://www.tecma.net/nautica/ngs.html . This unit is the choice
of the major mega-yacht manufacturers and many charter companies and
if it is good enough for them, then it will do for us.
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Getting started
The build time, although sometimes frustrating, does provide an
excellent opportunity for in depth research, so that many decisions
concerning layout and equipment can be made in advance. Now that our
Thomas 50 is safely on shore on the bank of the Medway, it is time to
put the theory into practice and to commence the fit out.
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Please note:
whilst we have tried to establish facts wherever
possible,
any views
given are only our opinions.
If you have any questions, I will be happy to forward your emails to
Jackie and Jeff
E-mail Ian
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Created 10th July 2007
- Last
updated
20 December 2009
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